Tasting the Time in Jongno, A Visit to the Old-Fashioned Restaurant 'Sinseunggwan (신승관)', Keeping the Authentic Chinese Cuisine of Overseas Chinese Alive

The Taste of Jongno, Layered with Time: Encountering Sinseunggwan (신승관)

There are days when one suddenly longs for a hot and honest meal. As you walk between the forest of buildings in Jongno 1-ga, the heart of Seoul, you notice spaces where the flow of time seems strangely different. Among them, 'Sinseunggwan (신승관)' located at 19, Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, which has silently held its ground, is one of those special 'nopo' (long-standing establishments) to me. As soon as you open the glass door, the savory smell of oil and the clinking sound of tableware create the illusion of having gone on a time travel.

This is not just an old restaurant. It is a space imbued with the 'weight of a family business' that has been preserved by chefs of Chinese descent (Hwagyo) over generations. It is different from the giant franchise Chinese restaurants commonly seen these days. Knowing that the owner personally manages the kitchen, infusing both tradition and change into each menu item, made the dishes on the table feel even more precious.

Green Excitement, Special Dishes Found Only at Sinseunggwan (신승관)

Sitting down, the first thing I ordered was the signature spinach water dumplings. The dough, which is said to be made with spinach juice extracted fresh every morning, had a truly vibrant green color. The moment you put it in your mouth, the thin, translucent skin bursts, and the juice mixed with fresh vegetables and ingredients fills your mouth. That simple yet addictive taste is the very embodiment of the sincerity that can only be felt here.

Browsing through the menu, you will find an unfamiliar name called 'Boksal-bokkeum (pufferfish stir-fry).' This dish, which is rarely seen in other Chinese restaurants, is made by deep-frying pufferfish meat until crispy and stir-frying it quickly with chili oil and doubanjiang (bean paste). It was spicy, yet had a clean finish, making it hard to stop using the chopsticks. The tender Jeon-ga-bok (assorted seafood and vegetable stir-fry) and the Saeu-sol-sal-twigim (fried shrimp) that boasts a sweet and soft texture with mustard sauce also seemed to prove why Sinseunggwan (신승관) has been loved for such a long time. Above all, the sauce for Jjajangmyeon, the basic and pride of Chinese cuisine, is extraordinary. That bowl of Jjajangmyeon, infused with a deep and rich flavor, makes you nod in agreement as to why this place has conquered Jongno with just its Jjajangmyeon alone.

A Short Guide for Your Visit, Following the Charm of Jongno

Sinseunggwan (신승관) is located near Jonggak Station (종각역), so it has excellent accessibility. Since it is especially crowded during weekday lunch hours rather than weekends, a tip to enjoy the atmosphere of the old restaurant more leisurely is to visit slightly outside of peak meal times. The feeling of eating steaming Jjajangmyeon on an old table while the gentle sunlight of around 2 PM streams through the window is a sensibility that can only be felt here.

Nearby flows the Cheonggyecheon (청계천) stream, which is a great place to take a walk after a meal to help digestion. It is also fun to look around the old alleys visible between the buildings while listening to the sound of the water. It doesn't have to be a grand trip. Just sitting on an old chair at Sinseunggwan (신승관) and savoring the taste of dishes passed down through generations—that alone completes a wonderful day in Jongno. In which season will I visit this place again next time? I think I will likely be drawn back when the cold wind begins to blow, longing for those warm dumplings again.