The Breath of Bonghwa, Gyeongsangbuk-do: Finding Comfort in the 12 Peaks of Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park

Walking Above the Clouds: The First Impression of Cheongnyangsan

Upon entering Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park located in Myeongho-myeon, Bonghwa, Gyeongbuk, the first thing I noticed was the temperature of the air. It felt as if a 'refreshing' energy—living up to its name 'Cheongnyang'—was seeping deep into my lungs. Designated as a scenic site in 2007, it is called one of the three major rocky mountains in South Korea along with Juwangsan (Mountain) and Wolchulsan (Mountain). As soon as I stood at the foot of the mountain, I found myself nodding in agreement as to why it earned such a title. The monument of 'Cheongnyangsan-ga' by Toegye Yi Hwang, which I encountered at the entrance, seemed to tell me that this place is not just a rugged mountain, but a forest of humanities where scholars and poets stayed and contemplated for a long time.

12 Stone Folding Screens, A Sumie Drawn by 6.6 Peaks

The true essence of Cheongnyangsan lies in its 12 peaks that soar as if carved by a knife. Centered around Janginbong (Peak), the 12 peaks—including Seonhakbong (Peak), Jaranbong (Peak), and Takpilbong (Peak)—each with a remarkable name, create a spectacular sight as if a massive stone folding screen were draped over the mountain. As I walked along the path, I heard the sound of clear wind from somewhere; it felt just like the sound of ancient scholars brushing their ink, adding a mysterious charm. From the 8 caves like Gimsangul (Cave) and Wonhyogul (Cave) to the Dokseodae (Reading Stand) where Choe Chi-won is said to have read books, the historical traces embedded throughout the mountain give a hint of its depth. In particular, the feeling of having one's mind washed clear after a sip of Cheongmyeongsu (Water), which is said to have made Choe Chi-won brilliant, is an emotion you cannot truly understand unless you experience it yourself.

Where Time Stops: Memories of Cheongnyangsa Temple and the Mountain Fortress

Cheongnyangsa (Temple), situated halfway up the mountain, is said to have been built by Monk Wonhyo during the reign of King Munmu of Silla. Standing in the tranquil courtyard of the mountain temple, you can see the layers of mountain ranges at a glance, and only the sound of wind chimes swaying in the wind breaks the silence. After visiting Osandang (Hall), where Master Toegye is said to have lectured with his disciples, and Cheongnyangsanseong (Fortress), which holds legends from the time of King Gongmin's refuge, you will understand why this place is called a 'sanctuary for the heart.' While descending the mountain, I also stopped by the museum and the Agricultural Culture Exhibition Hall, which was a time to calmly reflect on how nature and humans have lived in harmony, rather than just visiting a grand tourist spot.

Small Tips for Travelers

Since Cheongnyangsan is famous for its rugged terrain, it is highly recommended to check the weather conditions before your visit and to bring light hiking shoes and plenty of water. It is beautiful in all four seasons, but personally, I recommend early summer when the forest is at its freshest, or late autumn when the autumn foliage paints the 12 peaks. Once you visit Cheongnyangsan in Bonghwa, it is the kind of mountain that will suddenly pop into your mind in daily life. If you need some time for solitary contemplation or want to clear your mind, I suggest planning a trip to Bonghwa.