A Morning in Chodang, Gangneung: A Record of Chodang Halmoni Sundubu (Soft Tofu) Filled with Soft Warmth

The Taste of Chodang Found While Cutting Through the Dawn Air

The morning air in Gangneung (Gangneung) is exceptionally crisp and cold. Walking while breathing in the wind blowing through the pine forest, the savory scent of soybeans tickles the tip of my nose. Located at 77, Chodang-sundubu-gil, Gangneung-si, this is where 'Chodang Halmoni Sundubu (Chodang Grandmother's Soft Tofu)' has preserved its consistent taste for a long time. Arriving in front of the restaurant, I could feel the warmth of people already full of anticipation, despite it being early. Thinking of the tofu, which is carefully crafted using traditional methods every morning, my heart began to flutter at the prospect of facing that mild, simple bowl.

The Gentle Comfort of Freshly Made Sundubu

I sat down and ordered the Sundubu Baekban (Soft Tofu Set Meal), and a bowl of white, soft, and fluffy Sundubu arrived in an earthen pot. Taking a large spoonful and putting it in my mouth, the softness that touches the tip of the tongue is truly art. Even without special seasoning, the deep and rich savory flavor inherent in the soybeans spreads throughout the mouth. The taste, which is not stimulating yet warms the body from within, was enough to melt away the chill I felt from the sea breeze in Gangneung. The side dishes served along with it were rustic but neat, gifting me a sense of comfort as if I were sitting at a table in my grandmother's house.

The Harmony of Spicy Jjaebok, Another Charm of Chodang

If you have fallen in love with the mild charm of plain Sundubu, I would like to recommend 'Eolkeun Jjaebok Sundubu (Spicy Coquina Clam Soft Tofu)' to those who want a more intense flavor. The stew, boiled with plenty of 'Jjaebok' (coquina clam), a precious ingredient found only on the East Coast, is so refreshing that you won't want to leave even a single drop of the broth behind. The combination of the clam's cool umami and the spicy seasoning meeting the soft tofu makes one empty a bowl of rice in an instant. Alternating between the mild white Sundubu and the spicy Jjaebok Sundubu is my own way of properly enjoying this place.

Small Tips to Enrich Your Trip

Chodang Sundubu-gil (Chodang Soft Tofu Street) gets quite crowded on weekends. If you want to enjoy your meal with a bit more leisure, it is recommended to use the weekday morning hours. After finishing your meal, try taking a light walk along the low stone walls of the nearby Chodang-dong (village). The quiet village scenery makes the lingering taste of the meal last even longer. If you drive a little, Anmok Beach (Anmok Haebyeon) or Gangmun Beach (Gangmun Haebyeon) are nearby, making it perfect for enjoying a cup of coffee with a view of the sea after your meal. If you want to fill the beginning and end of your Gangneung trip with warmth, a bowl of Sundubu here is definitely worth experiencing.