Tasting the Time of Seoul: A Journey to Yonggeumok(용금옥) in Dadong(다동), 90 Years of History

Yonggeumok(용금옥), Where I Met the Time of Seoul at the End of an Alley

One afternoon when the wind had grown quite chilly, I stepped into a narrow alley in Dadong(다동). It has a modest entrance that one might overlook if passing by without care, but inside lies 'Yonggeumok(용금옥)', which has silently endured for 90 long years. Encountering the sign stating that it has kept this spot since 1932, I felt a lump in my throat for no particular reason. As I opened the door and entered, the old wooden floor creaked pleasantly, and a deep, savory aroma greeted me along with the warm heat. Hidden among a forest of modern buildings, this old house creates the illusion that time has paused for a moment.

A Depth of Flavor Beyond Loach: Seoul-Style Chueotang(추어탕)

The signature menu here, Chueotang(추어탕), is completely different in texture from the thick Jeolla-do style we are commonly familiar with. They boil the loach whole without grinding it, and perhaps because the base of the broth is made from brisket or tripe, the first taste is spicy and clean, similar to Yukgaejang(육개장). There is no trace of the peculiar fishy scent of loach, and the broth, blended with green onions and red chili powder, casts a spell that makes it impossible to stop using your spoon. The taste of the roughly chopped vegetables, well-cooked and melted into the broth, leaves you feeling as if healthy energy is circulating through your entire body after finishing a bowl. It may not be flashy, but I encountered the honest and deep flavor here that only an old restaurant can produce.

Walking Tips to Enjoy the Romance of Dadong(다동)

If you have finished your meal at Yonggeumok(용금옥), don't rush—take a moment to stroll around. The Dadong(다동) and Mugyo-dong(무교동) areas are charming places where the atmosphere of the past and the busyness of the present are strangely blended. After your meal, it is nice to take a walk along the nearby Cheonggyecheon(청계천) Stream. The alleys of Dadong(다동) become much quieter once the lively laughter of office workers fades away after lunchtime. A great time to visit is around 2 PM, when it is less crowded. If you want to avoid the heat of the busy lunch hour and sit back to savor the old-fashioned atmosphere at a leisurely pace, I think this is the perfect time. The value of a taste that has continued for 90 years is only truly completed when you go and face it in person.