Hoamsanseong Fortress in Geumcheon-gu, a Seoul Travel Walking Along the Path of Wind Preserving a Thousand Years of Time

Rising to Hoamsanseong, Old Stories Told by the Forest

If you step away from the center of Seoul and head towards Siheung-dong, Geumcheon-gu, you can meet the low stone walls of Hoamsanseong Fortress (Hoamsanseong), which has stood in its place for a very long time. On the path climbing up a spur of Gwanaksan Mountain (Gwanaksan), the city noise fades away, and only the whispering of the forest lingers in your ears. It was an afternoon where the earthy scent carried on the breeze and the sound of rustling leaves felt truly heartwarming.

Hoamsanseong is said to be a temaesik (mountain-girded) fortress that has protected our land since the Unified Silla (Tongilsilla) period. Although only a faint trace of the wall remains—about 300m out of a total circumference of 1,250m—the weight of time embedded between the sparse gaps in the stones was by no means light. Walking along the ridgeline, you might even get the illusion that you have traveled back in time and are walking on a fortress wall during the Silla dynasty.

The Legend of the Unfailing Mysterious Spring, Hanumul, and the Stone Dog Statue

As I reached near the top of the mountain, a mysterious landscape unfolded before my eyes. It is a large pond called 'Hanumul' (One Well). The water gathered in a spacious area 22m long and 12m wide reflected the sky, displaying a deep blue hue. It seems this pond was more than just a place to store water; it was a base for life, used for rain rituals during droughts and as a water supply during wartime.

The fascinating thing is that layers of time are piled up in each stratum of this well. It is said that a well from the Unified Silla period was buried underneath, and a stone construction from the Joseon Dynasty (Joseon) was added on top during the excavation. The dog-shaped stone statue (Seokguso-sang) found right next to it was truly impressive. The stone dog, said to have been erected to prevent fires in Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty, stood silently as if it were a sentry guarding this pond for hundreds of years, which somehow made me feel reassured.

A Day Good for Walking, a Journey Together with Gwanaksan Dulle-gil Trail

After exploring Hoamsanseong, I recommend walking the Dulle-gil course that descends to the nearby Hoapsa Temple (Hoapsa). When the sound of the tranquil temple's bronze bell spreads across the mountain ridge, it makes me feel calm deep inside. The best time to walk is, of course, around sunset. As the sunset slowly setting beyond the fortress walls paints the mountain red, you finally realize that the city of Seoul is a truly warm place.

To get there, you can climb along the Gwanaksan Dulle-gil Trail from the Siheung-dong, Geumcheon-gu area, and it is closer to a light walk than a hike. However, as it is a mountain path, comfortable sneakers are essential. As it is a historical site, I hope you take it in with your eyes, feel it with your heart, and stroll slowly without damaging nature. Sometimes, a fortress on a low ridge like this offers deeper comfort than a flashy tourist attraction.