A Hot Bowl to Wake Up Jeju's Morning: A Travel Diary of Moise Haejangguk (Hangover Soup) in Jeju City

Near Jeju Airport, the first meal filled with travel excitement

The blue sea of Jeju, visible through the airplane window, fades away as I pick up my rental car, marking the start of my journey in the morning. Driving along Yeonbuk-ro in Jeju-si, one can't help but feel a flutter of excitement. As always, a trip begins with a hearty meal. The place I visited today is 'Moise Haejangguk', a spot long-loved by the local Jeju residents.

As soon as I open the door and walk in, the savory scent of meat broth greets me. Despite being early in the morning, the sound of bustling conversations and the bubbling of soup in the ttukbaegi (earthenware pots) makes it clear that Jeju's morning has truly begun. It is a warm, cozy scene that makes the effort of braving the cold dawn wind well worth it.

Crack a raw egg into the red, thick broth!

After ordering their signature Haejangguk and waiting a moment, an appetizing ttukbaegi filled with red broth and topped with chopped green onions appears. A tip for enjoying Moise Haejangguk even more is to use the raw egg provided on the table. Crack the egg into the boiling hot soup, and without stirring, push it down beneath the surface of the broth. By the time the yolk is slightly cooked, take a spoonful with the meat; a spicy yet deep umami flavor spreads throughout your mouth.

The meat is so tender, and every time I dip my spoon in, it comes up with plenty of toppings. I found myself so immersed in the joy of eating that I lost track of time, and before I knew it, beads of sweat had formed on my forehead. That refreshing feeling as your stomach is soothed—I think that is the true charm of eating Haejangguk while traveling.

A special twist in the Naejangtang and a leisurely morning

I also tasted the Naejangtang (offal soup) that my companion ordered. Uniquely, this place includes tofu in the Naejangtang. The deep flavor typical of Naejangtang, combined with the mildness of the tofu, ensures the broth isn't greasy and leaves a clean aftertaste. For those who can't handle spicy food well or prefer a milder taste, Naejangtang is a great option.

Sitting by the window, I watched the leisurely streets of Jeju in the morning while slowly finishing my soup. It is located at 221, Yeonbuk-ro, Jeju-si, which is close to the airport and not far from the city center, making it a great stop on your first or last day of the trip. Even though I visited early around 7:00 AM, there were quite a few people dining. Seeing not just tourists but also locals visiting as part of their daily routine made me even happier, as if I had truly found a taste of Jeju.

A short suggestion for travelers

After filling your stomach at Moise Haejangguk, I recommend taking a walk along the nearby Jeju city trails. A morning that begins with delicious food determines the condition of your trip. If you want to feel the warm hospitality of Jeju contained within a simple, unadorned earthenware pot, a meal here will become an unforgettable memory.

Nearby, places like Halla Arboretum (Halla Sumogwon) and city parks are close by, making it perfect for a light walk after your meal. If you want to avoid the busiest times, try visiting around 8:00 AM. Even if the morning breeze in Jeju is cold, a hot bowl of Haejangguk encountered within it will make your trip much warmer.