Sanbang-gulsa Cave (산방굴사) in Jeju, A Landscape Where the Crimson Sunset and Sanbangdeogi's Tears Linger

Sanbangsan (산방산) Under the Clouds, A Mysterious Cave Halfway Up

Whenever I travel to the western part of Jeju, Sanbangsan (산방산) never fails to catch my eye. Its dome-shaped silhouette is particularly striking, and the climb toward Sanbang-gulsa (산방굴사), hidden 150 meters up the mountainside, is quite breathless. As I took each step, breathing in the wind mixed with the scent of soil and deep greenery, a massive sea cave suddenly appeared before me. This is Sanbang-gulsa (산방굴사), where high monks have stayed and practiced since the Goryeo Dynasty.

Stepping into the cave, a coolness completely different from the sunlight outside envelops you. The moisture from the ancient rocks mingled with the scent of incense, providing a strange sense of peace. The seated stone Buddha enshrined here has been guarding this place since 1985; it felt all the more poignant knowing it replaced an ancient statue that disappeared during the Japanese colonial period. I paused for a moment to catch my breath, wondering what thoughts must have crossed the minds of Monk Hyeil (혜일 스님) or Chusa Kim Jeong-hui (추사 김정희) as they stayed here.

The Sad Legend of Sanbangdeogi and the Ever-Flowing Tears

If you look up at the cave ceiling, droplets of water form and drip down from the cracks in the rock. People call these 'the tears of Sanbangdeogi (산방덕이의 눈물).' Sanbangdeogi was a goddess who fell in love with a man named Goseongmok (고성목) in the human world, but due to the greed of a powerful official, she returned to Sanbang-gul (산방굴) and turned into a rock. The tears she sheds have continued to fall for over a thousand years, forming a small spring.

When the clear sound of water droplets hitting the ground fills the quiet cave, the story of the legend feels as vivid as if it happened yesterday. Watching the stream of water flowing incessantly, as if washing away the pains and sorrows of this world, I felt a knot in my heart melt away as well. Whenever I visit a place with such deep narratives, rather than just a flashy tourist spot, I feel like I am getting a closer look at the true essence of Jeju island.

A Trip to Western Jeju with the Mysteries of Yongmeori Coast (용머리해안)

After coming down from Sanbang-gulsa (산방굴사) and walking for about 10 minutes past the Sanbangsan (산방산) rest area, you will find Yongmeori Coast (용머리해안), which looks like a dragon's head emerging toward the sea. Combined with the unique tholoid volcanic terrain of Sanbangsan (산방산), the geological strata here are truly mysterious. The massive rock cliffs carved by the waves, the Brother Islands (Hyeongje-seom, 형제섬) visible beyond, and the faint silhouette of Marado (마라도) on a clear day are the highlights of a trip to Jeju.

Personally, I recommend visiting at sunset. When the sun slowly sets around Sanbangsan (산방산), painting the sea in golden hues, the view from Sanbang-gulsa (산방굴사) combined with the sound of the rough waves at Yongmeori Coast (용머리해안) truly completes a perfect day in Jeju. While cafe hopping is great, why not take some time to listen to the old stories preserved by this historic mountain temple? The address is 218-12, Sanbang-ro, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si. If you are traveling through western Jeju, I highly recommend stopping by.