Andong Hahoe Village, the Song of Winding Rivers and Quiet Winds Encountered at Gyeomamjeongsa

In Search of the Footsteps of Gyeomam Yu Un-ryong, Above the Winding River

The air in Andong is exceptionally clear. Upon entering Hahoe Village (Hahoe Maeul), the first things that welcome you are the scent of earth rising beyond low stone walls and the coolness of the river breeze. While many walk along the village paths, I turned my steps toward a higher place. It is Gyeomamjeongsa, the very place where Gyeomam Yu Un-ryong, the older brother of Seoa Yu Seong-ryong, studied and taught his disciples. Located at 181, Pungil-ro, Pungcheon-myeon, Andong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do, it stands precariously yet proudly on the cliff west of Buyongdae (Buyongdae Cliff), as if it has built a wall against the chaos of the world.

Although the path to the hermitage is somewhat steep, you arrive quickly by listening to the wildflowers blooming along the way and the sounds of the forest. Sitting on the wooden floor (maru) of the hermitage and looking down, I could see the entire panoramic view of Hahoe Village, embraced by the Nakdonggang River (Nakdong River). Gazing up at the 'Gyeomamjeong' plaque, said to have been written by Toegye Yi Hwang himself, I was under the illusion that I could hear the voices of scholars who would have read books and sung of nature here hundreds of years ago.

The Aesthetics of Nature Viewed from the Two-Story Pavilion

The structure of Gyeomamjeongsa is truly exquisite. The two-story pavilion style hermitage faces the river in the front and houses the inner quarters (anchae) in the back, blending perfectly into the surroundings without defying nature. The pavilion, with 4 bays in the front and 2 bays on the side, sits in the path where the wind rests. If you close your eyes while sitting on the wooden floor, the sound of the river flows through the leaves and settles low against your ears.

The highlight of this place is, of course, the river winding beneath the cliff. The hermitage, built on a massive rock cliff, remained silently in its place as if it were a part of nature. Looking at the wooden porch (toetmaru) of the inner quarters and the rustic straw roof of the storage building, I realized once again how great the comfort provided by simplicity is, rather than splendor. I lingered for a long time in the aesthetics of the Joseon nobleman's village, which creates such a perfect landscape without a single artificial decoration.

The Joy of Travel, the Gift of Leisure

Hahoe Village is so vast that even an entire day is not enough. However, Gyeomamjeongsa is the perfect place to step away from the bustle of the village and catch your breath for a moment. If you are planning to visit, I recommend going before 10 AM or late in the afternoon at sunset. This place is most beautiful when the sunlight shatters on the river or when the setting sun paints the cliffs red.

I recommend a course where you view the entire village landscape from the summit of Buyongdae, then slowly walk down to stop by Gyeomamjeongsa to calm your heart. It is also good to explore nearby old houses such as Chunghyodang or Yangjindang to feel the depth of Andong's Confucian culture. Although the scenery changes with the seasons, reading a book on the wooden floor of the hermitage would be wonderful in spring or autumn when the cool river breeze blows. The time spent staying within nature was the most precious gift I received from this trip to Andong.