The Deep Flavors of Gamjeon-dong, Busan: Encountering Warmth and Tradition at 77 Dol Gopchang (40 Years of History)

Comfort in a Rich Broth Crafted by Time

The wind in Busan feels a little saltier and more energetic than anywhere else. Walking through the alleys of Gamjeon-dong, Sasang-gu, a subtle, spicy aroma brushes against your nose and stops you in your tracks. Forty years may seem like just a number, but the history contained within the stone plates at 77 Dol Gopchang is profound. Opening the door, you are greeted by the comfort of vintage wallpaper and the savory scent of tripe (gopchang) wafting from the kitchen, filling the air.

There is no need to spend a long time reading the menu here. You can feel the perseverance of a place that has survived for decades with only one dish: Hanwoo Gopchang Jeon-gol (Korean beef tripe hot pot). Perhaps thanks to the owner’s touch—insisting on only domestic Hanwoo beef and preparing it by hand every morning—there is no typical gamey smell, only the natural, sweet, and savory flavor of the ingredients melting into the broth. The bubbling sound from the stone plate seems to represent the vibrant energy of Busan.

A Delight for the Senses Blooming on a Stone Plate

Watching the hot pot sizzle, hunger quickly turns into anticipation. The heat from the stone plate is steady and deep; as time passes, the broth becomes thicker and richer. Taking a large spoonful, the first taste is spicy, but it is soon followed by the rich, fatty flavor of the Hanwoo tripe that fills your mouth. It has a magical appeal that is neither too spicy nor too stimulating, yet makes it impossible to stop spooning it up.

Regular customers who visit the shop have their own ways of enjoying the hot pot. Some add chewy udon noodles to soak up the broth, or curly ramen noodles to add texture. I chose udon noodles this time, and they paired perfectly with the broth. The final highlight is, of course, the fried rice (bokkeumbap). Made by pressing the leftover broth, dried seaweed, and sesame oil onto the stone plate, it is a precious page of my Busan trip that I simply cannot give up, even when I am already full.

A Visitor's Guide for Travelers on Foot

77 Dol Gopchang is located at 98 Gwaegam-ro, Sasang-gu, Busan. The Sasang area is a unique blend of industrial complexes and residential neighborhoods, making it a great place to see another side of Busan. For travelers, I recommend visiting between 5:00 PM and 7:00 PM, when the energy of the evening commute begins to fill the streets. It is often better to arrive a bit early, as the shop frequently closes early when ingredients run out.

Nearby is Samnak Ecological Park (Samnak Saengtae Gongwon). After filling up with a hearty meal, a light stroll along the riverside while catching the breeze from the Nakdong River completes the perfect Busan itinerary. While the flashy areas of Haeundae or Gwangalli are nice, the process of finding the true colors of a trip in a place where local, deep flavors breathe is more precious to me. It is a place enough to be saved as a memory of a Busan trip, offering a sincere meal that 40 years of time can prove.