A Comma in the City: Embracing the Breath of Seasons at Gwanaksan(Mountain), the Mountain Wearing a Gat

The Scent of Earth Beneath My Feet, A Time to Forget the City

As soon as I get off at the subway station, I am greeted by the thick scent of soil and the fresh smell of grass. If you walk a little further along Gwanak-ro in Gwanak-gu, Seoul, the noise of the city gradually fades away, replaced by the chirping of wild birds and the sound of rustling leaves. Gwanaksan(Mountain) is famous for its unique rocky terrain that rises south of the Han River in Seoul, looking as if it is wearing a large gat (a traditional Korean hat). Since being designated as an urban natural park in 1968, it has become more than just a mountain; it has become a massive sanctuary for Seoul citizens.

The deep greenery felt from the entrance calms the mind. The scenery where rugged rocky peaks harmonize with the valleys is truly wondrous. The precarious rocks at the summit give a sense of the mountain's profound history. If you want a light walk, you can stroll along the barrier-free forest trail, or if you are more ambitious, you can choose a hiking course that leads to the summit. The course starting from the Seoul National University(Seoul Daehakgyo) entrance is well-known, so even a first-timer can walk comfortably.

Overlooking Seoul from the Dizzily High Yeonjudae(Hermitage)

By the time you are breathless, the sight of Yeonjudae(Hermitage) that finally appears near the summit is truly spectacular. Perched precariously yet firmly on the edge of a cliff, it explains why this place is the final destination for the Gwanaksan(Mountain) hiking trail. Knowing the story that King Taejo Yi Seong-gye of the Joseon Dynasty had it built to prevent fires when designating the capital, even every stone seems to hold the breath of history.

As I cool my sweat in the refreshing breeze and look out, the city of Seoul spreads out at a glance. Watching the clouds drift over the dense forest of buildings makes me feel as if the worries of the city are being blown away by a gust of wind. When the subtle sound of wooden gongs (moktak) from temples like Yeonjuam(Temple) drifts on the wind, I often think this place is like a small island in the city.

A Nature Gallery Changing Clothes Every Season

The charm of Gwanaksan(Mountain) is, above all, that it shows a different face in every season. In spring, cherry blossoms form tunnels around the entrance, and soon after, royal azaleas color the entire mountain red. In summer, the cool sounds of water pouring from Dong-pokpo(East Waterfall) and Seo-pokpo(West Waterfall) in the deep valleys wash away the fatigue of the hike. In autumn, the autumn leaves decorate between the rocks as if setting them on fire, and the winter snowscape reminds one of a traditional ink-and-wash painting.

If you have time, I recommend visiting early on a weekday morning. The air in the early hours when the forest wakes up is much fresher, and you can have the quiet forest to yourself with fewer people. The trail behind Gwacheon Middle School also has its own unique charm, so choosing a route from the Gwacheon side, unlike the Seoul National University entrance, will provide a different kind of travel pleasure.

On a day tired of daily life, if you want to purify your body and mind, head to Gwanaksan(Mountain). It is a place where you can be sufficiently comforted even if you just tie your shoelaces and set off without grand preparations. Which season's Gwanaksan(Mountain) will your next holiday be in?