A Comma in the City: Seoul’s Time Encountered at Bonghwasan (Mountain) in Muk-dong, Jungnang-gu

Bonghwasan (Mountain), a low ridge of Seoul reaching under your feet

As the afternoon sunlight began to wane, I set foot on the slopes of Bonghwasan (Mountain), the local hill in Muk-dong, Jungnang-gu. Its low height of 160.1m gives a sense of comfort that is hard to describe. Rather than a hike requiring heavy breathing, it is closer to a neighborhood walk where you can fully feel the texture of the dirt paths. As I entered the forest path, the scent of lush grass and soil brushed against my nose. It is truly fascinating that such an independent hill exists right next to the massive concrete jungle of Seoul.

As I slowly moved toward the summit, the rustling sound of wind shaking the leaves tickled my ears. Bonghwasan (Mountain), which embraces Muk-dong, has been called 'Bongujae' since ancient times. Reflecting on the fact that before being incorporated into Seoul in 1963, this was a crucial crossroads connecting Gyeonggi-do and Seoul, even the stones felt significant.

The scenery of the beacon mound where the past and present overlap

When you reach the summit, the view opens up as if by magic. To the north, Buramsan (Mountain) and Dobongsan (Mountain) draw ridges, and if you turn your eyes to the west, you can see as far as Namsan (Mountain) at a glance. In the past, it is said to have served as a beacon mound of Achasan (Mountain), transmitting signals from Hani-san (Mountain) in Yangju to Namsan (Mountain). Now, the beacon mound, restored in 1994, silently guards its place. Standing in front of the restored beacon mound against the cold wind, the desperate hearts of the people who lit fires day and night here hundreds of years ago seemed to be conveyed through the wind.

Near the summit, there is the Sansingak (a shrine for the mountain god), a Dodang (village sanctuary) with 400 years of history. Although the appearance of the building was changed to red brick and cement after a fire in 1992, the spiritual energy of the site remains heavy. I imagine the scenery of villagers gathering long ago to perform the Dodang-gut (village ritual) and pray for the peace of the village. Even amidst the speed of development, this place, still filled with people's wishes, is the quietest space to look back on oneself in the busy daily life of Seoul.

Finishing the walk, a tip for you

I especially recommend visiting Bonghwasan (Mountain) at sunset. The sunset of Seoul viewed from the summit is not flashy, but it has the power to stir the heart. On the way down as the city lights turn on one by one, your steps become much lighter. No special hiking equipment is needed. A pair of comfortable sneakers and a bottle of warm water are enough.

If you have time to look around, I hope you take a walk along the nearby Jungnangcheon (Stream) or enjoy a warm cup of tea in the cozy alleys around Sangbong-dong and Meokgol Station. This short trip, starting in Muk-dong and ending in Muk-dong, makes us realize that treasures are hidden in the spaces we breathe in every day rather than in grand attractions. On a day when your heart feels a little tired like today, why not walk the dirt paths of Bonghwasan (Mountain) and feel the change of seasons with your whole body?