A 100-Year Journey in the Alleys of Aewol: Exploring 'Gobullak' and Its Lettuce Enzyme Rice

Jeju's Time Found at the End of an Unfamiliar Alley

Jeju's Aewol is often remembered for its flashy cafes and coastal roads, but for this trip, I wanted to find a different kind of scenery. While walking slowly through the alleys of Gonae-ri, a 100-year-old traditional house with layers of history visible beyond the low stone walls caught my eye. That was 'Gobullak'.

As soon as I opened the door and stepped inside, the scent of wood and the cozy aroma of old mud walls brushed against my nose. It wasn't an artificially decorated vintage space, but one where the genuine breath of 100 years still lingers. Sitting on the wooden floor (maru), the view of Jeju outside the window felt even more peaceful today. Because of the alley's nature, I found it much better to park on the coastal road or at a nearby free parking lot and walk in, allowing me to fully soak in the sentiment of the restaurant.

South Korea's Only Lettuce Enzyme Rice, a Special Meal

As soon as I sat down, I ordered the signature Lettuce Enzyme Rice Set. The meal served was exactly like a warm home-cooked meal you would encounter when visiting relatives. This place is known as the only spot in South Korea that serves rice made with lettuce enzyme, and each grain, tinged with a subtle green hue, seemed to be filled with care.

I placed some black pork stir-fry (Heukdwaeji Jeyuk-bokkeum) over the freshly cooked, warm lettuce enzyme rice, lightly dipped it in the accompanying perilla seed sauce, and took a bite. The harmony of the crisp lettuce texture, the sweet sauce, and the deep flavor of the stir-fried pork was truly impressive. It wasn't over-stimulating yet highly appetizing, making it hard to put the spoon down. Taking a sip of the soup, I felt the comforting, hearty warmth that is characteristic of home cooking.

A Moment Needed for a Pause: An Afternoon in Gonae-ri

After finishing my meal, the sunset began to paint the sea off the coast of Aewol. Taking a stroll toward Gonae-ri Port to digest after the meal is one of the joys of travel. If you want to feel the atmosphere of the 100-year-old house, I recommend visiting slightly off-peak lunch hours. If you visit during a less busy time, you can explore every corner of the cozy shop at a more leisurely pace.

Flashy restaurants are nice, but sometimes I find myself missing the warm comfort that only a long-standing restaurant (nopo) can provide. 'Gobullak' was not just a place to fill my stomach, but a bridge connecting the past and present of Jeju through taste. Walking back toward the main road through the friendly alley, my steps felt much lighter and happier that afternoon.