Embracing Hallasan(Mt. Halla), Walking the Seongpanak(Seongpanak) Trail Where the Forest's Breath Lingers

A Forest Wrapped in Deep Green, Morning at Seongpanak(Seongpanak)

The dawn air was cold and clear. I still cannot forget the chilling sensation I felt upon arriving at the Seongpanak(Seongpanak) Rest Area, located at 1865, 516-ro, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do. Known as the largest oreum (volcanic cone) on the eastern mountainside of Hallasan(Mt. Halla), Seongpanak(Seongpanak) boasted a magnificent stature, as if it were surrounded by a massive fortress wall. The origin of its name—'Seongneoreum(Seongneoreum)'—which comes from the appearance of plank-like rock walls standing like a folding screen, resonated deeply within me for some reason.

As soon as I stepped into the trailhead, a dense forest of Japanese cedar trees welcomed me. The scent of soil and the fragrance of cold moss penetrated deep into my lungs. The sound of leaves rustling every time the wind blew instantly erased the noise of the city. The Seongpanak(Seongpanak) course is the longest path that crosses the eastern side of Hallasan(Mt. Halla) all the way to Baengnokdam(Baengnokdam Lake). Rather than expecting a light walk for a short time, I took my first step thinking of it as a long-breathed journey of having an honest conversation with myself.

A 9-Hour Journey, Patience Hidden Behind Gentleness

The Seongpanak(Seongpanak) Trail is the most representative course to Baengnokdam(Baengnokdam Lake). While the slope appears gentle overall, one should not let their guard down. Since it requires a steady 9-hour round trip, managing one's stamina is essential. As you walk, you can hear the deep resonance of the Seongneol Valley(Seongneol Valley), and at times, mist dreamily embraces the forest. The unique primeval forest of Jeju that spreads on both sides of the path keeps you from feeling bored throughout the hike.

Every step toward the summit makes your legs feel a little heavier, but the sound of the wind through the forest and the chirping of birds were my greatest cheerleaders. The rough stone paths and stairs encountered along the trail reveal the harshness of nature, but the sense of achievement when facing Baengnokdam(Baengnokdam Lake) is unparalleled. If you are planning this route, do not forget that you must make an advance reservation through the Hallasan(Mt. Halla) trail reservation system. Without a reservation, you cannot be embraced by the arms of this forest.

Tips for Travelers to Properly Enjoy Seongpanak(Seongpanak)

The best time to visit Seongpanak(Seongpanak) is, without a doubt, early in the morning. People who haven't experienced it don't know the feeling of starting the day walking through a forest path blanketed in thick fog. Depending on the season, you must be thoroughly prepared with your clothing. Jeju's weather is fickle; even if it's clear at the bottom of the mountain, it may be rainy and windy or the temperature may drop sharply near the summit.

If you have time to look around, it is also great to enjoy the Jeju drive course along the 5·16 Road. This road, connecting Jeju-si and Seogwipo-si, is a massive museum in itself. Don't forget to prepare enough water and pack high-calorie snacks like chocolate or nuts. Most importantly, the key is to have a mindset that does not go against nature. With the thought that everything I brought in, I will carry back out, the consideration to preserve this beautiful path for a long time is necessary.

Building Memories While Facing Nature

Baengnokdam(Baengnokdam Lake) as seen from the summit was silent. The feeling of walking above the clouds and the scenery of the summit viewed while facing the cold wind were enough to wash away the fatigue of 9 hours. Seongpanak(Seongpanak) is not just a hiking trail. It is a space of healing where I felt the history and time contained within the land of Jeju with my whole body, faced my own limits, and stood up again.

On this trip, Seongpanak(Seongpanak) taught me how to walk silently. Instead of trying to race ahead, I learned to move forward one step at a time, keeping pace with my own breath. On the way down the mountain, the scent of the Japanese cedar forest I encountered again felt even deeper. If I visit Jeju again, I will be standing at the entrance of Seongpanak(Seongpanak) without hesitation.