Breathing with the Mist, Silla's Breath: Walking the Dawn at Tohamsan Mountain, Gyeongju

Embracing Tohamsan, the Mountain That Welcomes the Morning of Silla

The air at dawn in Gyeongju is exceptionally sweet. Arriving at the entrance of Tohamsan (Tohamsan Mountain) at 238 Seokgul-ro, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do, through the cold morning air, the heavy, earthy scent peculiar to the forest brushes against my nose. I understood immediately why the ancient people of Silla revered this place as one of the five sacred mountains, or 'Oak' (Five Peaks). The white mist swirling around the mountainside moved slowly, as if a living creature were breathing. True to its name, Tohamsan (meaning 'a mountain that inhales and exhales mist'), witnessing that dreamlike scenery before my eyes felt like finally meeting the true face of Gyeongju.

A Gentle Path, Time for Reflection

While I am not someone who specializes in hiking, Tohamsan is perfect for clearing one's mind as it can be ascended lightly, as if taking a walk. Instead of steep paths that force you to gasp for air, gentle slopes continue, allowing you to focus on the rustling sounds of the surrounding trees. The sound of wind brushing through leaves and the chirping of mountain birds from afar mix with the sound of footsteps to create a tranquil rhythm. As you near the summit, the sunlight peeking through the mist is mystical. As befitting a mountain that cradles Seokguram (Seokguram Grotto) and Bulguksa (Bulguksa Temple), the essence of Silla Buddhist art, the antique energy emanating from every corner of the path calmed my heart.

A Moment of Spectacle at the Summit

the sunrise I encountered upon reaching the summit remained a scene I will never forget. As the red sun rose through the thick layer of mist, gradually painting the world in golden hues, I could only stay silent before the wonders of nature. Once the sun fully rose, the landscape of downtown Gyeongju unfolded like a painting below my feet. Tohamsan is not just a high place; it feels like a point where the past and present of Gyeongju intersect. On the way down, I recommend visiting Seokguram to wander through its cool and silent grotto. The texture of the cold stone, created by sophisticated masonry techniques, cools the heat from the climb.

Travel Tips for Tohamsan

To fully experience the charm of Tohamsan, it is best to visit during the dawn hours, just before daybreak. If you are moving at dawn to watch the sunrise, a thin outer layer is essential to prepare for the chilly wind. Planning your route to also visit Bulguksa at the foot of the mountain will add depth to your Gyeongju trip. Tohamsan in spring and autumn is perfect for walking, but a summer morning shrouded in mist has its own unique charm. Even if you don't push yourself to reach the summit, walking through the forest paths is enough to feel truly healed—that is the essence of Tohamsan.