A Quiet Moment in Sosan Village, Andong: A Walk Through Samgwijung Pavilion Infused with Filial Piety

The Scenery Found at the End of Sosan Village (소산마을), Where Time Has Accumulated

On a late autumn day in Andong (안동) when the sunlight was exceptionally clear, I visited Sosan Village. True to its name as a clan village for the Andong Kim family (안동 김씨), low and tidy stone walls line the entrance of the village. The faint smell of earth carried on the wind and the sounds of mountain birds heard from afar make this place feel as if time has stood still. Reaching Samgwijung (삼귀정), located on a low hill at the edge of the village, the first thing that caught my eye was the silhouette of its simple yet sturdy tiled roof.

It is said that Samgwijung was built in 1496 by a man named Kim Yeong-su (김영수) for his mother, Lady Kwon (권씨) of Yecheon (예천). Having endured numerous seasons here for over 500 years, the pavilion's appearance remains neat thanks to a reconstruction in 1947. As soon as I took off my shoes and stepped onto the wooden floor (maru), the cool autumn breeze brushing against my cheeks was truly welcoming. Thanks to the open-sided structure, the sight of the village roofs clustered together came into full view at once. It was the perfect shelter to have time entirely to myself, undisturbed by anyone.

Rocks Resembling Turtles, Containing a Son's Heart

Curious about the origin of the pavilion's name, I looked to the left and, sure enough, three rocks were positioned there, exuding a mysterious energy. These rocks, believed to be dolmens, vaguely resemble the shells of turtles. Aren't turtles considered auspicious creatures symbolizing longevity since ancient times? Placing these three turtle rocks by the pavilion was likely the desperate heart of the sons who wished for their mother to remain by their side for a long time without illness.

Understanding that heart while sitting quietly in the pavilion, the warmth of this small structure felt deeper than that of a magnificent palace. The handwriting on the signboard (hyeonpan) by Yi Jong-jun (이종준) is also neat and powerful. Sitting on the wooden porch and closing my eyes, it felt as if I could hear the rustling of leaves along with the footsteps of the sons from 500 years ago who climbed up here thinking of their mother. The power to move one's heart deeply without grand adjectives—that is the charm of Samgwijung.

Travel Tips for Enjoying Samgwijung

Sosan Village is a very small and quiet neighborhood. While just looking around Samgwijung would make for a meaningful trip, I recommend walking slowly along the village stone wall paths if possible. There is no need to look at a map. The entire village is like a museum, with the unique, tranquil atmosphere of Andong embedded everywhere you look.

The best time to visit is during the daytime when the sunlight is warm. Between 2:00 PM and 4:00 PM, as the sun begins to tilt slightly, the sunlight entering the pavilion's wooden floor is at its most beautiful. If you look down at the village while sipping a cup of tea from your thermos, it feels as if all the world's noises are fading away. Since there are not many special amenities nearby, I hope you prepare any snacks or water you might need in advance. As long as you have a considerate heart not to disturb the silence of this place as a traveler, Samgwijung will always offer you a warm comfort.