At the entrance of Andong Hahoe Village, a walk through Jangseung Park with 250 expressions

250 Faces Met on a Path Filled with the Scent of Wood

On the way to Andong Hahoe Village, I paused for a moment on an afternoon bathed in warm sunlight. Located at 159 Jeonseo-ro, Pungcheon-myeon, Andong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Andong Jangseung Park carries a peaceful energy as if time has stood still. As soon as I stepped out of the car, the bitter scent of wood and the smell of earth brushed against the tip of my nose, welcoming me. This place, where the sound of rustling leaves is heard pleasantly whenever the wind blows, is a special space carefully cultivated by master Kim Jong-heung of Hahoe Jangseung-chon Mokseokwon.

Upon entering the park, the first thing that catches your eye is the variety of Jangseung (traditional Korean totem poles). Some 250 Jangseung, completed by breathing life into discarded wood, seem to each hold their own stories. From the Cheonha Daejanggun (Great General of the Heavens) and Jihayeojanggun (Great General of the Earth) guarding the village with fierce expressions, to Jangseung smiling as innocently as children in a countryside neighborhood, they naturally bring a smile to my face. The fact that no two expressions are the same is the park's greatest charm.

Stories of Jangseung with an 'Andong-like' Feel

What draws the most attention are, of course, the Jangseung modeled after Hahoe masks (Hahoe-tal). They showcase a rustic yet sophisticated aesthetic that cannot be seen anywhere else in the country—only in Andong. The craftsmanship that preserves the curves of the bent wood to make a shy maiden appear as if she is hiding behind a pillar is enough to evoke admiration. I lingered for a while in front of a Jangseung that had two faces carved into a single wooden pillar. It is fun to imagine what these two might be talking about.

Since ancient times, Jangseung have been guardian deities that warded off evil spirits and prayed for the well-being of the people at village entrances. What kind of wishes did people long ago make while looking at these Jangseung? As I strolled slowly through the park, taking in the rustic faces of the Jangseung one by one, I felt the troubled corners of my heart gradually calming down. Perhaps what gives a much deeper resonance than flashy sculptures is the human touch that captures the natural grain of life just as it is.

Tips to Make Your Andong Trip Richer

To properly enjoy Jangseung Park, it is better not to rush. If you visit the park at dusk when the sunset is low, the shadows of the wooden carvings stretch out, creating an even more mystical atmosphere. I recommend visiting during a quiet time when the wind dies down so you can deeply inhale the scent of the wood.

If you have stopped by here, you should definitely include the nearby Hahoe Village in your itinerary. Walking along the path that winds around the Nakdonggang River is the highlight of an Andong trip. If you have time, it is also good to combine your visit with Byeongsan Seowon (Confucian Academy). It is not far from Jangseung Park by car, making it a perfect course to fully feel the tranquil charm of Andong. Wear comfortable shoes and just walk slowly wherever your feet take you. That is the best way to travel Andong in the most 'Andong-like' way.