The Romance of Jeju Summer: Meeting the Ancient Sea of Jeju at the Geumneung Wondam Festival

A Transparent Emerald Sea, Infused with Ancient Stories

Jeju's summer is always hot and intense, but the breeze at Geumneung Beach (Geumneung Haesuyokjang) feels somewhat different. The shallow, sprawling emerald sea has gentle waves, keeping the air filled with the laughter of children. The '16th Geumneung Wondam Festival' (Je-16-hoe Geumneung Wondam Chukje) I encountered there was more than just an event; it was a time to feel the breath of Jeju with my whole body. Wondam is a traditional fishing facility reflecting our ancestors' wisdom, where stones were piled up along the coast to trap fish that entered with the high tide when the tide ebbed. Watching the stone walls left alone where the seawater had receded, it felt as if the traces of how Jeju people once fiercely coexisted with the sea were whispering in the sound of the waves.

A Vivid Scene of Fishing Culture to See and Experience Firsthand

On the first day of the festival, I walked through the Wondam while listening to a docent's explanation. It was so cute to see small crabs hiding in the cracks of the layered stones. Here, you can go beyond just looking and participate in 'Seonjin-geumul' fishing, which recreates traditional community methods. The experience of breaking a sweat together while pulling the nets became an unforgettable summer memory. On the second day, the festival fever reaches its peak with programs like bare-handed fish catching and the Tewak swimming competition. The cheers of people echoing over the splashing seawater and the salty sea breeze made me feel like I had stepped into a scene from a movie. The always-available Gomang fishing or Wondam walking programs were very popular among families, as they were easy to join without prior reservations.

For a Perfect Summer Day in Geumneung

On August 23rd and 24th, when the festival is held, Geumneung Beach will be more vibrant than ever. While the festival grounds are free to enter, some experience programs require a fee, so it’s good practice to check on-site! After enjoying the festival, take a light stroll to the nearby Hyeopjae Beach (Hyeopjae Haebyeon). The sunset at Geumneung, with Biyangdo Island in the background as the sun slowly sets, is one of my favorite sights in Jeju. Walking along the shore as the heat of the hot day cools down, with a refreshing ade from a nearby cafe in hand, I couldn't help but think, 'Ah, I’m so glad I came to Jeju.' I recommend visiting around 3-4 PM, when the sun starts to dip, rather than during peak crowded hours, so you can enjoy both the festival and the sunset until late in the evening.