Gumi's Place Where Time Stands Still, A Walk Around Mae-hak-jeong (Maehakjeong)

A Place Where the Scent of Ink Lingers, First Impressions of Mae-hak-jeong (Maehakjeong)

I drove along the riverside road in Goa-eup, Gumi, for quite some time. Just as the noise of the city began to fade and the sound of the winding Nakdonggang (Nakdong River) came into earshot, I arrived at the entrance of the Mae-hak-jeong area. As soon as I got out of the car, the scent of earth and the river breeze tickled the tip of my nose. This is not just an old pavilion; it is a space where the master of cursive script from the Joseon Dynasty, Gosan Hwang Gi-ro (Hwang Giro), and his son-in-law, Oksan Lee Woo (Lee Woo), once discussed academics and enjoyed refined pleasures. Standing under the deep green shade cast by old trees, I felt as if I could hear the scratching sound of the brushes they might have exchanged hundreds of years ago.

The Trajectory of Time Flowing Beneath the Simple Eaves

Standing in front of Mae-hak-jeong, I quietly surveyed the base. The three-tiered foundation, built by stacking layers of granite, possesses a solid yet rugged charm. Hearing the story that it was first built in 1533, destroyed by the ravages of the Imjin War (Japanese invasions of Korea), and restored to its original form in 1654 by Lee Dong-myeong, I realized how many storms this place has endured. The hip-and-gable roof, spanning four bays at the front and two at the sides, is neither excessive nor insufficient, resembling the restraint of a scholar. I stood there for a long time watching the shadows cast on the ground by the sunlight falling from the ends of the eaves. The sight of the foundation stones remaining on the site of the former Seowon (Confucian academy), quietly holding their place as if to prove the heat of the prosperity of learning in the past, stirred something deep inside me.

Quiet Leisure to Fill the Five Senses, Visiting Tips

For the Mae-hak-jeong area, the best time to visit is not in the very early morning, but between 3 PM and 4 PM, when the sunlight reaches deep between the pillars of the pavilion. This is more of a quiet walking spot for contemplation than an artificial tourist facility. You don't need any grand preparations. Just sit in the pavilion, close your eyes for a moment, and listen to the sounds of the Nakdonggang water and the birds. After slowly looking around the nearby Gwirakdang (Gwirakdang), you will feel your heart become much calmer. Since it is not difficult to access from downtown Gumi, it is good to visit with a light heart by combining it with other riverside attractions nearby. However, please remember to maintain silence to protect the cultural heritage and be sure to take all trash you brought with you.

Leaving Behind Unforgettable Records

Mae-hak-jeong is not a place that lures people with flashy attractions. Instead, it is a space that quietly awakens the 'beauty of empty space' that we have lost while being caught up in our busy daily lives. As I looked back on my way home, the sound of leaves shaking in the river breeze felt as if it were saying goodbye. If I visit Gumi again, I would like to bring a cup of warm tea instead of the 'Four Treasures of the Study' (Munbangsau) and keep the scenery in my eyes for a long time. I hope one page of your travel diary will also be filled with the tranquility of this place.