At the Foothills of Geumosan(Mt.), Where Time Seems to Stand Still - An Afternoon at Gumi Chaemijeong(Pavilion)

Beneath Geumosan(Mt.), Where the Wind Lingers

The road toward Geumosan(Mt.) always calms my heart. Walking along the gentle slope in Namtong-dong, Gumi, the noises of the cold city are replaced by the whispering of leaves. Located at 366 Geumosan-ro, Gumi-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Chaemijeong(Pavilion) stands its ground with simple dignity. As I step through the entrance, Heungnimun(Gate), a cool breeze sweeps through the well-manicured garden. Breathing in the air, mixed with the scent of soil and aged wood, I feel as if the busy gears of daily life have momentarily come to a halt.

Chaemijeong(Pavilion) was built in the 44th year of King Yeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty to honor the integrity and loyalty of Yaeun Gil-jae. His life, having lived in seclusion here in Seonsan after the fall of Goryeo and the dawn of Joseon—driven by the conviction that one cannot serve two kings—is embedded throughout the pavilion. 'Chaemi' is derived from the ancient story of Bo-i and Suk-je in China, who kept their integrity while gathering bracken. Sitting on the wooden floor of the pavilion and looking up, the sunlight filtering through the rafters felt as cool and warm as the upright spirit of an old scholar.

A Quiet Walk Encountering Winding History

The 'paljak' roof, on a structure of 3 bays in the front and 3 bays in the side, is not extravagant. Instead, it possesses a simplicity that becomes a part of the landscape without overwhelming it. Behind the pavilion, Gyeongmogak(Hall) and Yuheobigak(Stele Pavilion), which house the 'Royal Five-Character Poem' by King Sukjong honoring Gil-jae's loyalty, stand side by side. I traced the characters engraved on the stone steles with my eyes one by one. The touch of the stone, having endured hundreds of years, feels cold yet provides an inexplicable sense of reassurance.

It is best not to rush when exploring this place. Sit in the pavilion, close your eyes, and listen. The sound of the valley stream, the rustling of leaves in the wind, and the occasional chirping of mountain birds blend to create a perfect musical score of nature. There may be no flashy sights, but there is an aesthetic of 'emptiness' here. I cannot think of a better place to set down a heavy heart for a moment and immerse oneself in contemplation.

The Leisure of a Gumi Trip

Chaemijeong(Pavilion) is located on the way to Geumosan Provincial Park, making it perfect to visit together. I recommend a course where you enjoy a serene morning at Chaemijeong(Pavilion) and then take a slow walk along the nearby Geumoji(Reservoir) Dulle-gil(Trail). Walking along the ripples of Geumoji(Reservoir), you can truly feel the calm and blue charm of Gumi.

The best time to visit is during the spring when flowers are in full bloom or in autumn when the maple leaves paint the pavilion courtyard in red. Visiting around 10 AM allows the sunlight to reach deep inside the pavilion, letting you enjoy a warmer atmosphere. Another great charm is that you can visit with ease, without any special entrance fees or complicated procedures. There are many cafes with nice atmospheres nearby, so I hope you enjoy a moment of leisure with a cup of tea after fully soaking in the classical sentiment. Chaemijeong(Pavilion) will not just remain a historical building, but a precious sanctuary that plants a small peace in the visitor's heart.