A Place Where the Nation's Spirit Resides, Comfort Found in the Seasons at Taebaeksan National Park

The Raw Breath of the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range Under My Feet

I headed toward Taebaek, Gangwon-do, a place that makes my heart feel cool just by hearing its name. Taebaeksan, unfolding around the 1,560m-high Yeongbong Peak, is not just a high mountain, but a sacred mountain of our nation and the origin of the lifeblood rivers, the Hangang River and the Nakdonggang River. As soon as I stepped into Taebaeksan National Park (Taebaeksan Gungnip Gongwon) located in Hwangji-dong, the clear and cold air—a far cry from the stifling air of the city—pierced my lungs. The texture of the soil beneath my feet felt both rough and warm. Taebaeksan is a typical 'yuksang' (mountain with thick soil), so it has a different quality from rocky mountains with sharp, steep inclines. Throughout the trail, I could feel the generosity of a mother who has silently held her place for so long.

A Time to Touch the Sky at Cheonjedan

Arriving just as sweat beads began to form, the Cheonjedan (Heavenly Altar) was nothing short of awe-inspiring. Watching the clouds drift over the pile of stones that have endured wind and rain for ages, I understood immediately why this place has been considered sacred since ancient times. A panoramic view of the massive ridges leading to Janggunbong Peak, Munsubong Peak, and Hambaeksan Mountain unfolds, and in front of that overwhelming scenery, the complex worries in my heart felt as light as dust. I heard that if you are lucky, you can encounter precious wildlife like the endangered yellow-throated marten or the besra; it really felt like a place that, while allowing human footsteps, still keeps the deep secrets of its ecosystem.

The Yew Tree Habitat Where the Four Seasons Reside

The true face of Taebaeksan lies in its yew tree (jumo) habitat. The yew trees that have silently endured for hundreds of years hold a noble vitality in every winding branch. In spring, royal azaleas and mountain azaleas paint the ridges in pink, and in summer, the sound of cold valley water under the deep green shade makes one forget the heat. What about autumn? The whole mountain changes its clothes into burning foliage, making it impossible not to press the shutter with every step. Especially in winter, the scenery when the whole world is covered in white snow and frost flowers (sang-godae) bloom on every yew branch is unforgettable. That quiet and cold beauty is the greatest comfort that only Taebaeksan can provide.

Warm Advice for Travelers

Taebaeksan is located at a very high altitude. If you are planning to hike, it is better to check a course that fits your physical strength rather than an overly ambitious schedule. The area around 59 Beonyeong-ro, Taebaek-si, is the entrance, so I hope you enter the address into your navigation and move at a leisurely pace. Taking a tour of the nearby Hwangji Pond (Hwangji Yeonmot) is also a must. If you climb Taebaeksan and then come down to see the clear water of Hwangji Pond, the origin of the Nakdonggang River, you will feel the energy gained from the mountain being fully integrated into your body. While the mountain is always in that spot, the seasons and times we encounter it are always different. Early in the morning, when the mist has not yet lifted, Taebaeksan is truly the pinnacle of mystery.