A forest path at the foot of Baekyangsan Mountain in Busan: An afternoon at Seonamsa Temple where time seems to stand still

A thousand-year breath encountered in the heart of the city, Seonamsa (Temple)

Leaving the bustling streets of Busan behind for a moment and climbing along the foot of Baekyangsan (Mountain), a world of unbelievable tranquility unfolds. Seonamsa (Temple), located at 138 Baekyangsan-ro, Busanjin-gu. As soon as I entered the entrance, the deep scent of earth and the mountain breeze brushing against my nose felt as if they were washing away the old fatigue of daily life. I wonder if it was this peaceful when Monk Wonhyo first established the site here in 675. Reflecting on the history—including the legend that the names carved into the rocks were created by Hwarang warriors practicing martial arts, and the multiple reconstructions the temple has undergone—makes every single stone step feel more significant.

A landscape of the temple felt through the five senses

I love the sounds you hear while walking through the temple grounds. The sound of water flowing under Geungnakgyo (Bridge) crossing the valley clarifies the mind, and the sound of the wind chimes from the Jonggak (Bell Pavilion) that ring softly whenever the wind blows lingers in my ears. With Daeungjeon (Main Hall) at the center, Geungnakjeon (Hall of Paradise), Gwaneumjeon (Avalokitesvara Hall), and Myeongbujeon (Hall of the Underworld) are cozily situated; among them, the camellia tree stretching its branches over the stone embankment is the absolute highlight. When the red flowers bloom, I imagine this place truly becomes a Pure Land. The sound of the small waterfall hidden behind the Yongwangdan (Dragon King Altar), Seonampokpo (Waterfall), is refreshing enough to make you forget the summer heat.

The aesthetics of staying: Temple stays and travel tips

Beyond simply looking around, if you want to fully feel the energy of this mountain temple, considering a rest-type temple stay is a great option. Participating in various programs operated by the temple, such as the Buddhist Culture College or pottery making, to reflect on yourself will surely become a special memory.

As it is also a stopover for hikers visiting Baekyangsan (Mountain), you can enjoy even deeper meditation if you visit during the day on weekdays. Traveling by public transport to the entrance of Baekyangsan-ro and then walking along the gentle forest path is a healing process in itself. I recommend enjoying a light trek in connection with nearby walking trails, or taking in the view of Busan’s city center on your way down. You will be able to discover the charm of the deep, green mountain, which is quite different from the glamorous sea of Busan.