Walking the Breath of Busan, A Hiking Log of Geumjeongsan (Mountain) Shaped by 70 Million Years

A Path Facing 70 Million Years of Time

Located in Geumseong-dong, Geumjeong-gu, Busan, I often forget that such a vast amount of time sleeps not far from the city center. Geumjeongsan (Mountain) is more than just hiking; it is a journey to meet the geological roots of Busan, where the earth's once-hot magma cooled into granite millions of years ago, only to be uplifted, eroded, and refined. As soon as I entered the mountain trail, the deep scent of soil and the fragrance of wild plants brushed against my nose, relaxing my tense body.

Every step taken brings encounters with strangely shaped rocks, each speaking in its own way. Looking at rock formations like Tors and Gnammas, sculpted by wind and rain, one cannot help but admire nature's role as a sculptor. I believe this, a landscape far more precise and elegant than any artificial garden, is the true face of Geumjeongsan (Mountain).

Busan’s Embrace Viewed from Godangbong (Peak)

Walking along the ridgeline naturally connects to the trail of Geumjeongsanseong (Fortress). The fortress, encountered on the way to Godangbong (Peak), felt like a sturdy guardian that has protected the mountain for ages. Upon reaching the summit, Godangbong (Peak), the texture of the wind changes. The refreshing feeling as sweat cools off is the greatest gift earned after hard work.

the panorama from Godangbong (Peak) is truly spectacular. The ridgeline connecting Janggunbong (Peak) to Wonhyobong (Peak) and Sanghakbong (Peak) evokes the illusion of a giant dragon wriggling. The way these unique rock formations, created by the Bulguksa (Temple) granite series from the Cretaceous period 70 million years ago, surround the city feels like a blessing unique to Busan. I set down my backpack for a moment, took in the view of Geumjeong-gu (District) below, and let out a deep breath.

Tips for a Mind-Clearing Journey

Since Geumjeongsan (Mountain) is quite large, it is better to check the course in advance rather than climbing without preparation. Especially when walking along the fortress path, the terrain is rougher than expected, so comfortable hiking boots are essential. While the course starting from Beomeosa (Temple) up to Godangbong (Peak) is the most popular depending on one's stamina, I recommend walking the quiet forest path near Bukmun (North Gate) if you have time.

The best time to visit is undoubtedly spring and autumn, when the wind is cool. However, Geumjeongsan (Mountain) shows off different charms in every season—the deep greenery of summer and the cold, metallic hues of the rocks in winter. A small tip to complete the trip is to start hiking early in the morning rather than late in the afternoon and finish the journey with a warm bowl of Gukbap (soup and rice) in the village below. You don't necessarily have to conquer the summit of Geumjeongsan (Mountain). Just focusing on a small wildflower by the roadside or the texture of the rough rocks beneath your fingertips will be enough to provide a sense of comfort.